Monday, February 04, 2008

Nadi and Auckland

My impressions of Fiji are entirely limited to the International Arrivals concourse of the airport in Nadi (pronounced “Nahn dee”), which has two gates, a bunch of duty free stores, and an inadequate a/c system. We spent about two hours there on the way to New Zealand. If we’d had more time, or if Nadi were more centrally located (from what we can tell, it’s a bit removed from everything!) we’d have gone looking around. As it was, we recuperated from our 10-hour flight and counted our lucky stars that the next one was only three hours!

We had a great view of Auckland flying in, looking down on the bays, the mountains (mostly volcanic), the lakes, and the trees, including what we later learned was the pohutukawa, the New Zealand “Christmas” tree (it produces bright red flowers in December…)

The Auckland airport was well-organized and highly efficient, the immigration folks seemed happy to see us, there were free baggage carts at baggage claim, and the taxis were marvelous! Clean as a whistle, completely modern (“credit cards? Of course!”), and please don’t insult the driver by trying to tip him. The most amusing part was that Naoyuki couldn’t figure out where the driver was (on the right, not the left) and there were a few anxious moments before I persuaded him that we really were NOT going down the road the wrong way.

The drive into Auckland was itself very pleasant. It’s always fun to look at other people’s cars. You never see Holdens in the U.S., for example, the Japanese imports are of a slightly different variety, the Fords are mostly from Europe (not the U.S.), but occasionally you’d see a P.T. Cruiser or some other distinctly U.S. car.

Auckland itself is attractive, hilly and green, with nice houses and beautiful gardens anywhere. Maybe it was just the driver but we managed to go the whole way without going by any rundown residential neighborhoods and even the commercial ones seemed uniformly prosperous (not to mention exceptionally well-kept.)

We stayed at the Auckland Hilton on Princes Wharf, immediately adjacent to the cruise ship terminal (really just an extension of the hotel complex), smack dab in the middle of the CBD (Central Business District) and the Viaduct Basin, a trendy eating / shopping area. Naoyuki, as always clever about these things, had cashed in his Hilton Honors points (or something like that) for a free room but they upgraded us to the second nicest level, a big, ultramodern room on the 8th floor with a balcony on two-sides providing a great view of the wharf, the Viaduct, and the CBD.

Our room wasn’t quite ready when we arrived (mid-afternoon) so we wandered the business district, looking at shops, looking for reasonably priced (ha!) All Blacks’ (New Zealand rugby team) apparel, and picking up a few sundries that we hadn’t bothered to bring with us from Buffalo. Later on we had a cocktail (glass of wine? I forget which, now!) in Bellini, the hotel’s elegant bar; checked out White, the hotel restaurant (very expensive!); and decided to pay a visit to the Viaduct in search of food. We wound up at Kermadec, presumably one of the oldest seafood restaurants on the waterfront, and one with an excellent view. Good food although service was a bit iffy and Naoyuki’s experience was spoiled a bit by a large group of Japanese tourists who were yukking it up (in a not very nice way, apparently!) assuming no one else in the restaurant understood Japanese (wrong!) But whatcha gonna do, right?

The next morning we took a tour of Auckland gardens. Naoyuki had found Mike of Mike’s Garden Tours through his website and then had done a bit of e-mail back and forth with him. A former country club groundskeeper and landscaper, Mike is a native Aucklander with a well-developed appreciation of Auckland’s gardens and surrounding countryside (what the Kiwis and Ozzies call “the bush!”) Normally Mike caters to Japanese tourists but they seem to be in short supply in Auckland these days (apparently Japanese tourism is notoriously fickle) so we had him all to ourselves.

Our tour included the rose gardens in Dove-Myer Robinson Park in Parnell (not Albert Park, which is what I had originally; I get confused easily, you know!); the Savage Memorial (honoring NZ’s first Labour prime minister, Michael Joseph Savage; One Tree Hill, now jokingly referred to as “No Tree Hill,” in the middle of a park that doubles as working sheep farm; the Winter Gardens and the Fernery at the Auckland Domain, home to Auckland’s War Memorial Museum; and the private garden of Peter Brady, an Auckland local who has spent the past 20 years landscaping (planting, pathing, sculpturing, benching, you name it) every square inch of his quarter-acre plot, all of which is presided over by his pet parrot, Mr. Rambo.

Auckland has a year-round equable climate, never too hot, never too cold, and the growing season is basically nonstop, with roses flowering all year and with shrubs (rhododendrons, azaleas, etc.) that we try to so hard to grow in Western New York achieving impressive proportions. Pretty much an ideal climate for gardening!

After the tour, we nipped into the Hilton where the ever helpful (and attractive!) staff quickly produced our luggage and rolled it down the sidewalk (no more than 100 feet) to the ship’s baggage handlers. Our check-in process was the smoothest, quickest we’ve ever done. By 1 p.m. we were in our stateroom (5035) and ready to begin our voyage!

Labels: , ,

Monday, January 28, 2008

Heading Out

We left Wednesday morning, January 2nd. Our across the street neighbor, Matt Weppner, gave us and our four suitcases and 2 duffle bags a lift to the airport. He and Anita, his wife, took care of Saki, our 14-year-old Shiba Inu, while we were gone. In addition to three adorable kids (Hannah, Erin, and Brennan), they have three dogs, two bunnies, and a cat. With the presence of Saki, their house was a veritable zoo!

As I mentioned in the previous post, we spent the night in Los Angeles. Mostly we worried about being able to make connections in a timely matter. Our last big cruise (Panama Canal on the Crystal Symphony) we woke up to find Buffalo totally fogged in. Two hours before departure we went online to find out that conditions were clear in Rochester, 60 miles down the road. Two one way tickets and a mad dash later we were on our way -- and made it on the ship just half an hour before sailing from Caldera, Costa Rica. Much too close for our comfort zone!

Los Angeles was good. We had hoped to get soba in Manhattan Beach but the place was closed so that evening we headed to Little Tokyo. Komasa, which we had wanted to try last trip, was full so we went a few doors down to Hama Sushi, which was small, incredibly authentic, and just plain fabulous. The follow up visit to Yamazaki induced the usual sighs of delight.

Next day we continued the exploration of Los Angeles we'd begun in April and continued in November. This time we did the Beach Cities: Venice, Marina Del Rey, Vista del Mar, El Segundo, Huntington, Manhattan, Hermosa, Redondo, ending up with a tour through Palos Verdes Estates and down to Long Beach, before doubling back on the PCH and heading back to Little Tokyo for a second round at Hama and Yamazaki.

After lunch, we visited the Japanese-American National Museum, a very poignant reminder that there is a lot about American history that (even now) we don't get taught in school. The racist quote from Ben Franklin emblazoned on the wall made me squirm, just as it should have done. (Not that I was particularly surprised; I was mostly squirming that I had to go there to have read it!)

Then it was off to The Grove, the shopping haven adjacent to Farmer's Market, for some window shopping and some eye candy. Then back to LAX to check in our luggage with Air Pacific. And then to Encounter for dinner with Tom.

Encounter was a hoot. The elevator played Jetson-inspired music, the restaurant itself, still done up for the holidays, twinkled, sparkled, and oozed, in true Lava-lamp fashion, and whenever someone ordered a beer on tap the dispenser produced a chorus of chirps, whoops, and wails reminiscent of the bar scene in Star Wars. The price tag reflected the killer ambiance, not the quality of the food, which was quite good but nothing extraordinary.

We boarded the plane for our 10-hour flight to Fiji well-sated (views, food, and a friend!) and ready for more!


Labels: , , , ,

The Big Trip: Overview

We departed Buffalo on Wednesday, January 2, 2008, for our Big Trip, a 2-week cruise to ports in New Zealand and Australia aboard the Celebrity Mercury. Our itinerary included:

Jan. 2-3: Buffalo to Detroit to Los Angeles via Northwest. Toodled around Little Tokyo, the Grove, and the Beach Cities. Had dinner Thursday night at Encounter, the cool restaurant in LAX’s signature building, with our friend Tom.

Jan. 3-5: Los Angeles to Nadi (Fiji) to Auckland (New Zealand) via Air Pacific, the national airline of Fiji. The flight to Fiji was 10 hours but because we crossed the International Dateline going east to west Jan. 4 disappeared entirely!

Jan. 5-6: Checked out Auckland (on foot and a private tour) before boarding the Mercury, docked at Princes Wharf, adjacent to our (ultracool) hotel, the Auckland Hilton. Mike of Mike’s Garden Tours was knowledgeable and charming and Auckland is beautiful!

Jan. 7: Tauranga, New Zealand. Tour of the town plus Kiwifruit Country. We learned more than we could possibly have imagined about kiwi fruit. I told the owner / tour guide it was the best agricultural tour I’d ever been on.

Jan. 8: At sea

Jan. 9: Napier, New Zealand. An earthquake flattened Napier in 1931 and the citizenry rebuilt in the trendiest architectural style of the period, Art Deco! As a result Napier has the largest concentration of Art Deco style buildings anywhere.

Jan. 10: Wellington, New Zealand. Our tour of the Karori Wildlife Refuge resulted in our meeting Desmond Smith, a Karori tour guide and one half of the first couple in New Zealand to receive a Civil Union license!

Jan. 11: Christchurch, New Zealand. Rough crossing through the Cook Strait the night before (fortunately, we’re both impervious to motion sickness.) Nice tour of Lyttleton (Christchurch’s port) and Christchurch itself before heading up into the Southern Alps for a short walk about Arthur’s Pass and then a scenic train trip back to town on the TranzAlpine Railway.

Jan. 12: Dunedin. A tour of the town plus a visit to the Otago Museum.

Jan. 13: Cruising the New Zealand fjords. We entered Dusky Sound in the morning, while I was still asleep, and skipped Doubtful Sound because the water was too rough (insert joke about needing a “Backup Sound, beep, beep, beep!” here!), and then on to Milford Sound. Wow! It rates right up there with the top of Mt. Hale’akala as one of the most spectacular bits of scenery I’ve ever seen!

Jan. 14-15: Crossing the Tasman Sea from the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island to Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. HEAVY seas both days, with swells up to 15 feet! Much too much for many of our fellow passengers but I loved it!

Jan. 16: Coach tour through Melbourne (pronounced “Melbun”) up to the outlying town of Healesville and the Healesville Wildlife Sanctuary. Kangaroos, koalas, and platypi, oh my!

Jan. 17: At sea.

Jan. 18: Newcastle, New South Wales. We’d originally planned on doing the “baths and paths” tour but opted instead to do a private tour of the Hunter Valley wine region with some of our tablemates, and just as well—Newcastle was very much under the weather!

Jan. 19-20: Sydney. Wow! What a beautiful city. A nice enough coach tour through the city center and nearby eastern suburbs, including spectacular Bondi Beach, and, best of all, a visit to and tour of the Sydney Opera House. Better yet, our friend, Nicky, a fellow passenger on our Panama Canal (Crystal Symphony) cruise, picked us up and took us on a 3 ½ hour car tour of, including a stop by her parents’ house to pick up her dad, who was kind enough to drive us across the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Jan. 20-21: Flying back to Buffalo. We departed Sydney Sunday afternoon and arrived Buffalo about the same time Monday afternoon—36 hours later! Going west we had lost Jan. 4; going west to east we got to experience Jan. 20 twice!

Altogether, a truly fabulous trip with a hundred memorable events! More postings about individual episodes before long...

Labels: , , , ,